Commonly, above-ground swimming pools are installed on the earth or ground. Some will put them on concrete though and that’s pretty nice. Well, it’s nice when it’s done right at least.
Installing an above ground swimming pool on concrete is nice as long as the slab is level. Most backyard patio concrete slabs are poured off- level to allow rainwater to drain off of them. This makes it difficult to install an above ground pool on them.
POURING A CONCRETE PAD SPECIFICALLY FOR AN ABOVE GROUND POOL VERSUS INSTALLING ONE ON AN EXISTING SLAB
Deciding to pour a concrete slab for your future above ground pool is a nice decision. With a pool on concrete, you don’t have to worry about nutgrass, moles, or any earth dynamics causing issues. There are a couple of drawbacks to it, but for the most part, it’s a solid way to go.
Most thinking about installing their pools on concrete are doing so because they have some kind of existing patio or slab in the yard. Using an existing concrete slab is often problematic though.
Unless you’re a concrete person, you may not realize that most concrete patios or outdoor slabs of any kind are considerably off level. This is because any outdoor hard ground surface needs to have a gradual drop-off to allow rainwater to drain off of it.
When most people look at their existing concrete slab, it looks level. I’ve had more than a few people call me out to build their above ground on an existing slab. When I talk to them, I explain how most slabs or patios are too off-level to install a pool on, but they will assure me that they checked and the concrete slab in their backyard is level.
When I get to their house to build the pool, I’ll pull out my laser level and show them that the deck that they insisted was perfectly level, is off quite a bit.
The last time I went out to build a pool on an existing slab, the lady assured me that her concrete was level as her husband checked it with a level. Plus, it was only a 15’ round pool, so even if it was off a little, it couldn’t be much in the span of 15’ across.
When I got to her house and checked the slab, it was off by two full inches in that 15’ span. And a pool being two inches off is entirely unacceptable. Fortunately for me, I brought my skid/steer machine just in case I’d have to build the pool on the earth instead. And that’s what I had to do
NOT ALL EXISTING CONCRETE SLABS ARE OFF LEVEL, BUT MOST OF THEM ARE
You can’t assume either that your existing slab is off level. Some are perfectly level. Last year, I build a pool on the basketball court that someone had in their backyard. It was perfectly level.
You can’t accurately check to see if your slab is level by just laying down a four-foot level. Even the four-foot level will tell you it’s off, but many people don’t really know how to read a level. The best way then is to either use a builder’s level that you can rent or borrow, or use a line level with a string.
Most don’t have access to a builder’s or laser level, and renting one just to use for two minutes doesn’t make much sense. So, using a two-dollar line level and some string is a good bet.
Use stakes in the ground beyond the slab or whatever you need to be able to have a nylon string running tightly across the slab and a few inches above it. Once the string is running across the concrete, attach the line-level onto the line in the middle of the run. The line-level is designed to attach to the string, so it’s easy to do.
Using the line level, adjust the level of the string by raising or lowering it at one or both ends. Do this until the line level shows the string to be perfectly level. Once you know that the string running across the slab is perfectly level, use a tape measure and measure down from the string, to the concrete on both ends of the slab. The difference in numbers is how off-level the slab is.
You have made the string perfectly level over the slab, so if the distance from the string down to the slab is 2” in one end and 4” on the other, then the slab is off by 2 inches. This would not be good for installing an above ground pool.
TIPS FOR POURING A CONCRETE SLAB FOR AN ABOVE GROUND POOL
Pouring a concrete pad for an above ground pool is pretty straightforward. Here are a couple of tips to make it a better overall product.
#1 Make the slab at least one foot bigger all the way around than the size of the pool
Don’t try to make the slab perfectly sized with the pool. Above ground pools aren’t Swiss watches. They often are not made with exact dimensions and are usually installed imperfectly shaped.
Using a 24’ round pool as an example (which is the most common above ground size) you’ll ideally want to pour a 26’ round slab. This will give you a nice extra ledge all the way around the pool. And it will give you plenty of room if the pool goes up a little egg-shaped.
#2 The standard thickness of a concrete patio slab is 4”. For an above ground pool, you can get away with only a 2” thick pour.
Concrete is expensive. You can save some money by just making a 2″ thick pour. Some will think that the concrete needs to be at least 4” thick as pool water is heavy. This is not needed as the water weight is evenly distributed.
I’m bringing this up as an option to save some money. You may find some structural engineers disagree with this. I mean, this is the internet, the place where everyone anonymously knows more than everyone else.
The way I know a 2” pour will work well is that I have seen it in the real world working well several times. For me, this trumps what some pasty geek will tell you based on his indoor-only math.
#3 Make sure the slab is level
I know this sounds obvious, and it’s not something to be concerned with if you are having a concrete contractor do the pour. If you are doing the job yourself though, keep in mind that the wall of the pool should be level to within at least a half-inch.
A slab even as little as an inch off from one side to the other will show in the finished pool. So, you want to get this level.
#4 Do not put up the pool wall, and then pour concrete in the bottom
It might make sense to have concrete poured only in the bottom of the pool (and not on the outside), but this is limiting.
When you pour the concrete after the pool wall is up, the concrete forms with the pool’s wall and bottom track. This is ok as long as nothing ever happens to the pool. But if there ever is an issue with the pool and it needs to be replaced, the replacement will never form to the concrete floor.
In this case, a strip of concrete will have to be cut along the perimeter to get the old pool out and the new one in place.
Concrete will last a hundred years, but an above ground pool will not. I have had to cut out concrete to remove and install a replacement more than a few times in the last 34 years. I would avoid pouring concrete after the wall goes up if you can.
#5 Concrete slabs crack. It’s ok.
Some will overthink how to prevent the slab they pour from cracking in the future. I have seen people using a bunch of expansion joints placed in weird positions. They are overly concerned with this because they think the weight of the pool’s water will cause the concrete to crack.
As a pool guy for more than three decades, I can say one thing for sure. “Most concrete decks crack”. Do what you want to try to prevent this, but don’t beat yourself up when it happens, because it probably will.
The worst-case scenario here is that the concrete cracks so bad, that you feel it in the bottom of the pool. This sounds worse than it is as the only annoyance is that you will feel it. A crack won’t damage the pool at all.
#6 You will need to use foam coving and at least a liner guard/pad
Every metal-walled above ground pool needs coving. Most installs will just have the earth or sand as the coving. When a pool is on concrete though, earth or sand can sift out from under the wall, so a sand cove is “no bueno” for this.
Foam coving was originally designed for display pools on concrete in showrooms. It won’t move or break down, so it’s needed for pools on concrete.
Also, I (and others) have found that when liners rest directly on concrete, they will form leaks. This is why something has to go between the concrete bottom and the liner. A liner guard is the easiest option for this as it’s easy to install and is made for it.
Some will use other things to pad their pool bottom with on concrete. Styrofoam sheeting is a decent option, but it’s expensive and more difficult to install as the sheets have to be cut and duck taped together tightly. It’s also common for people to use carpet as a barrier for the bottom too. This works well also.
#7 Concrete is expensive
You may want to get a rough idea of the cost of having a slab poured before giving it any further thought. It can be very pricey to have done. It can be a lot even if you DIY it too.
TIPS FOR USING AN EXISTING CONCRETE SLAB FOR AND ABOVE GROUND POOL.
Using an existing slab to put an above ground pool on seems like a better and easier idea than installing it on the earth, but it’s oftentimes very problematic. This is all because most existing slabs are off-level.
The following tips will mainly help you with info on installing on an off-level concrete slab.
1 MOST IMPORTANT – Make sure the slab is level
I cannot stress to you how important this is. Every year, tons of people decide to put an above ground on their existing concrete patio and just think that it will be level enough.
They will go through the trouble of installing the pool and then at some point (hopefully sooner during the install than later) they realize that the pool will be too off-level. Some will install the pool completely and not know until they fill the pool up with water.
They will instantly notice how off-level the pool is by the water. Water has to be level because of its weight, its liquid form, and the gravitational pull of the planet. Duh! This is the main reason a swimming pool has to be level. Because it’s full of level water.
It sucks when people have to take their pool back down because they didn’t check beforehand on the level of the concrete pad. So do that first.
To check the level of the slab, see above for directions.
If by some great luck, you find that your slab is level, then great. Read no further.
2 Make sure the concrete pad is big enough
Don’t assume it’s big enough. Take out a tape measure and make sure it will fit the size pool you are wanting.
Some slabs will be too small, but people will use it anyway. They do this by building up the earth to the same level adjacent to the slab to make more surface to fit the pool. This usually works well as long as the pool’s wall is level.
3 If the concrete is off level, you can still install the pool on it, but it will be difficult
Above ground pools start to look visibly off starting at one inch. Some pool install manuals will tell you that up to one inch off level total is OK, but no more than that.
As a professional installer, I shoot for the pool to being off no more than one-quarter of an inch max. If your slab is only off an inch total from one end of the pool site to the other, you may be ok to proceed with the install. It won’t affect the pool in any way but may bug you as it will be slightly noticeable.
Most existing concrete slabs will be off much more than that though, And if that’s the case, it’s usually easier to pick another spot in the yard on the earth for the install site.
If you do choose to install the pool on the off-level concrete pad, you will have to somehow get the bottom track level. This will be very difficult. The bottom track will rest directly on the high end of the slab but will have to be elevated on the lower end.
This is tough as the slab is gradually off level, which means the pool’s bottom track will have to be raised at different levels all the way around. You will need to be able to elevate each bottom connector to a specific height. This will need something like 4”x4” square shims made of metal or plastic that are thin enough to create thicknesses plus or minus at least 1/8 of an inch.
The other option is to cut the concrete in the area of where the track is going and remove so you can build-up that area of the slab to the same level with earth and patio stones. This is a good way to make the bottom track level but cutting concrete and removing it is not easy.
4 If the slab is too off level, you can build a sandbox on it
This is an easier and viable option for putting an above ground on a concrete slab. With this, you use pressure-treated wood to build a frame and then fill the frame up with sand.
Now, you have an area on top of the concrete slab with 4” or so of sand. You can install the pool on the sand and be able to level it perfectly.
The wood used for the perimeter of the sandbox should be screwed into the concrete with brackets to ensure that they never move or allow the sand to escape the box.
Of course, when building the sandbox, make it much bigger than the dimension of the pool so there’s plenty of sand on the outside of the pool. This will help to disallow any sand under the pool from escaping out by going under the wall.
INSTALLING AN OVAL POOL ON CONCRETE IS VERY DIFFICULT
Almost all oval pool designs require some of their parts to be below the bottom track. This means they cannot be installed on just one plane or level. So, even if an existing concrete slab is perfectly level, an oval cannot be built on it.
In the case of an oval pool, I only recommend building a sandbox on the concrete slab for a proper installation. Making cuts in the concrete so an oval can rest on it level is too much work and too problematic. I did this once years ago and swore I would never do it again. And I haven’t.
Hi! How do you bond an above ground pool on concrete? We poured a slab for ours, but it is much larger than the pool for furniture and a little bar.
I’m not at all convinced that an above ground pool needs to be bonded, however my thoughts are the only way to bond to a concrete slab is to be able to connect a ground wire to the wire mesh within the slab. That is something that should be prepared when the slab is poured.
I want to build a concrete splash pool above ground. The builder poured the floor with drain installed ,and then got Covid and never returned!. I only want it 2ft deep. How do I get walls built and how thick do they need to be and how much rebar? No one wants to finish it. Its 10ft x 14 ft and want 2ft high walls. Poured concrete or concrete filled blocks? Help please. in Florida
Sorry. I won’t give any advice on this project. This is too far out of the realm of this website.
I have a 40×20 above ground pool I want to install on the top of a 22x44x6″concrete slab. There are a couple low spots, no greater than 1/2″ and a little hump between the low spots. The edges however, are all level within a 1/4″. Will the low spots effect the pool in any way? What would be the best material(s) to build up the low spots-or is it even needed?
In the world of concrete slabs, this sounds like an amazingly level slab. You shouldn’t have any issues with it being a little off level.
We have a concrete pad that was poured for our 18’ Coleman Power Steel. We set it up, only to discover it is off level by about 3-4 inches. Would we be able to level it using solid foam insulation and setting the legs on pavers? Really hoping to avoid a sandbox because it’ll involve wheelbarrowing sand into our backyard. Any help appreciated!
I am sorry. 3-4 inches off level is just too much for you to use some material to build up one side with. You could try the foam boards and pavers, however, keep in mind that the concrete is “gradually” off 3-4 inches. This means that the pool’s bottom and legs that need to be lifted will all be at different levels(to make the entire pool one level). This makes it very difficult. Not impossible, but very difficult.
We just got a 15×24 oval pool and we are trying to figure out how to fit it in to our existing raised patio (stamped concrete) We were planning on pouring a large concrete slab to put the pool on and have small deck attached to tie in the patio to pool. I read your tips and then you said very difficult to install oval on concrete…so you would not recommend concrete at all for oval pool?
I am sorry to say that I do not recommend concrete for an oval above ground pool. Concrete is really nice, however since ovals are not installed on one plane, it would take too custom of a slab pour to be worth it.
Hi Dan, thank you the treasure trove of information. Had no idea how much I didn’t know.
Trying to understand how ovals need to be installed on more than one plane.
I’m about to have a pool cage constructed, and a 20′ x 36′ slab poured with the idea of installing a 12′ x 24 oval installed after. Where have I gotten this wrong ? TIA
I am finishing a 12×24 pool on concrete tomorrow. The best way that I can tell you is that the buttresses lay down below the level of the bottom track of the pool wall. This then makes the pool’s bottom structure sitting on two different planes (one being the bottom of the butresses and the other about 2″ higher being the pool’s bottom track where the wall sits)
Dear Dan know it all,
First thank you for time you give people the information they ask for.
My situation is I have an existing concrete pad at the end of my basement that is 25′ x 25′. It is rarely used anymore so the wife thought great place for a pool. and has bought a 21′ round pool. I do have an additional 7′ of pad to my basement door so size of area is not the problem. The problem is the 3″ drop for draining water away from the house. I never installed a pool before nor do I know anybody local who does but I have poured concrete sidewalks and padios.
I have two ideas but would like an expert opinion as to not go to all the expense and trouble if you feel neither would work.
1) Could you pour a footer on top of existing concrete and level the rails this way and pour a retainer wall on low end since this is where the deck will be and wall will not be seen
2) pour a 2″ pad on top of old pad and deeper where required to level it.
Again thank you for your time
Ed Chambers
There are two ways to install the pool level.
1. If you want to preserve the deck (in case you take the pool down later), you can build a “sand box” on top of the concrete and make the sand thick enough to be able to have a level pool inside it. This is done by using 2×6 pressure treated wood framed out to make the box big enough to hold the pool and then adding about 4″ of sand inside it. It’s best to secure the 2×6 border to the concrete so it never moves.
2. Mark out where you want the pool and level the area by adding cement to the existing slab where it needs it in order to make the area level. Use cement that can be poured thin. You don’t have to worry much about structural value with the added cement. You just want the area level for the pool. With This method, you’ll need to use foam coving and a liner guard.
I have a 15′ x 32″ circle above ground pool holding just under 3100 gallons. I was wondering how thick the pad should be and if #4 rebar should be used. Also I live in central Alberta so we do get very cold winters here how thick should the base for the pad be
I’m not knowledgeable about how concrete holds up to Canadian ground, but I can tell you that the pool itself doesn’t need much. Here in Central florida, I have installed several pools on only two inch thick concrete with only mesh(no rebar) and they held up very well. The pool isn’t as heavy(per sq. inch) as people think.
My opinion is to find out whatever the minimums are for concrete for your local weather and ground, and then go with that.
Hi, 1st of all thank you for making yourself available to answer our questions. We purchased 24ft x 12ft x 52in pool and want to permanently install it. It holds 8,403 gal. We are considering all options for the install and rearing towards a cement slap. What would you recommend?
It is a rectangle shaped pool
For an oval, I don’t recommend a cement slab. Round pool, yes. Oval, no. Intalling an oval on concrete requires building a sandbox. And if you do that, what did you really gain by pouring concrete?
Hi Dan, thanks for providing so much useful information. I have a question for you about how long to leave freshly poured concrete before installing a pool. We’ve bought a 14′ by 48″ round pool, which holds 15,000 litres and have just had the slab laid which is about 3″ thick. The kids are keen to get a go in the pool before the weather gets too cold here in the UK so we wondered how long before we can install it? We’ve seen various recommendations that full curing takes 28 days but it always seems to refer to driving or building on it, both of which would weight bear in a different way to a pool, where the weight is spread evenly. Your professional opinion would be much appreciated, thanks!
Hi. You only have to wait for the concrete to be completely dry. Curing time doesn’t apply to an above ground pool floor because the water weight is so evenly distributed. Your thinking is correct here. Install the pool whenever you want.
Hello
I bought a 12’x24′ above ground pool. Planning to either pour a slab or remove and level dirt and add R-Tech 1″x8’x4′ foam insulation sheathing duck taped together.
Any recommendations?
It’s an oval, so I don’t recommend concrete.
Actually its rectangle 12’x24′. Is that still considered a oval and don’t recommend concrete?
If the rectangle is designed to sit on one plane, then concrete is ok. The few that I have assembled were like ovals in that some of the structure had to be buried. If that’s how your is, then no bueno for concrete. I mean, it’s possible. I just don’t recommend it.
It’s the Intex 24ft X 12ft X 52in Ultra XTR Frame Rectangular Pool Set with Sand Filter Pump.
Excellent. I think they sit on a single plane, so you are good to place it on level concrete.
Thank you.
Thank you for the information, but I not sure if this question was asked? Do a contractor needs to add rock /gravels under the concrete first?
Where I am in Central Florida, no. I’m not sure about other areas of the country/world. Probably not in most areas.
Does anyone ever leave a small depression in there concrete? Say 18″ round and 1-1.5″ deep. (Tapered smooth if corse and located a few feed inside pool area)
In order to drop submersible pump in when emptying the pool. I have a 16’x31′ bestway rectangle pool and after draining the pool this fall there is still 2-3 inches of water in the bottom. I have it on sand but want to pour a pad next spring.
Also is it bad to leave this style of pool up all winter? Just drain it . I live in MN. I didn’t know how much life this would take out of pool? ? From uv and the like.
Thanks
I would say it’s ok to have an area in the pool bottom that is lower for the purpose of draining (Note: you can only drain soft-sided above grounds). Just make sure it’s gradual enough.
Some people drain and take down and some leave up for their winter. This is a personal preference thing although I would probably leave it up unless I have a particular reason for taking it down every year. You having it on concrete in the future will definitely make it easier to take down and re-assemble.
Hi Dan,
I have terrible problems with ground squirrels and gophers where I live. I am putting in a oval pool that will be 1/2 into the ground. I am preparing to pour a 2” slab of concrete and a sandbox on top of it. Should the frame for the sandbox be built at the same time as the pour? Will 4” be enough for the fram of the sandbox.
Hi. If you are going in the ground half way, then why are you pouring concrete? It shouldn’t be at all necessary unless there is something unusual that I’m not aware of. My thinking is that you dig the hole for the install, then if the earth is poor or too hard, install pool on a layer of sand. And you won’t need to build a box for the sand either.
I like your concrete tips. I need a new driveway. I’ll have to consider getting a contractor.
I have an above ground 24′ pool here in Michigan. Over the years, moles have created large depressions.
I would like to pour a cement slab without having to take the pool down. I know you recommend pouring slab before installing pool, but mine is already installed so how do you recommend I proceed? Still 2 inches thick if moles are a problem? Should cement come in contact with pool edge or stay an inch away? My vertical uprights sit on top of 1ft square slabs.
In your case with the pool already up, I would remove the old liner and then dig out the bottom 2″-3″ below the bottom track level.
I would then pour a 2″ thick floor on the pool bottom. This won’t be easy to get smooth and level, so rent whatever finishing tools you need. For the purpose of making it an easier job, I would pour to your 1ft square patio stones and not try to leave a gap. Then use foam coving and a liner guard to finish.
When the time comes to replace the pool, you will most likely need to cut or bread away some of the edge of the concrete slab. No big deal.
My wife is encouraging me to take down the pool to pour the slab. Since reading about installing a main drain, I wonder if that would be the better plan. Do you have an article or tips on taking down the walls before pouring the slab? Is it a good or bad idea? I’m okay with the extra labor, if it’s a better option.
I have this – https://abovegroundpoolsknowitall.com/how-to-take-down-a-used-round-above-ground-pool/
If pouring a slab, it would be better to take the pool completely down. The you can pour the slab big enough to place the entire pool on it(and not worry about patio stones for leveling). Keep in mind that you’ll want a new liner for this.
I’ve ordered my new liner, pool cove, and liner guard. I’ve decided against a cement slab bottom for cost reasons. Is there any reason I shouldn’t use 1ft. square patio blocks around the inside perimeter, roughly 2 inches below surface to help protect against recesses created by moles? The recesses are the main reason I’m replacing my liner.
I don’t see any harm with that. Seems like a lot of work, but might prevent mole damage.
What is the best and easiest way to pour a concrete slab for a pool with a main drain?
I’m assuming this is for a new pool just being installed.
I would set the main drain and piping in place first, then pour the concrete pad. You will need to absolutely know where the pool is going when setting the drain as you want it dead center and you won’t be able to move it(once cemented in). You also need to know what the level of the pool will be. Set the drain at least one inch lower than the level of the pool(so it will be the lowest point of the bottom).
Looking to install a 8x12x52 buttress free pool on a completely leveled slab that was poured for the pool. My concern is that the space I have is 10×13 for the leveled slab. Is it completely necessary for the sandbox? Can I install it without the sandbox and use 1.5″ or 2″ XPS foam for the base, along with gorilla pad on top, and then foam cove and liner? Isn’t the sand just to hide the extensions of the brackets underneath. Can the the extended portion of the support bracket on the sides be cut down to not pert rude a foot out the sides to fit into my space?
An oval pool sits on two levels (or plains)
1 The buttresses
2 the bottom track
IMPORTANT NOTE: The buttresses sit mostly inside the wall area of the pool(under where the water will be). Please read below, then re-read this IMPORTANT NOTE.
For most Wilbar models, the buttresses sit 2.5″ lower than the bottom track. This means that on a flat concrete surface, the buttresses will sit on the concrete while the bottom track will be floating 2.5″ higher. This then means that the bottom track(and the entire bottom of the pool) will have to be supported 2.5″ above the concrete slab.
What material will you be using to support the entire bottom of the pool above the concrete exactly 2.5″?
When trying to figure out a way to install oval with two different levels for the bottom structure on a single plane of concrete, you may arrive at another way which will require cutting some of the concrete. Yeah, don’t bother with that one.
Think about it and research it for as long as you need to. When you’re done, you’ll be building a sandbox for it.
Dan
Love your knowledge tips! Thank you
How far apart should 3/8” rebar be spaced in a cement slab for an above ground pool?
I live in California
Pool is Fitmax Ipool3 2200 gallons
metal frame with a suspended liner
Liner footprint is 7’ x 10’
Frame footprint is 9’ x 12’
3” slab (over base rock) is 13’ x 13’
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
I don’t think rebar is needed in a slab for an above ground pool. I would recommend wire mess though. Of course, you can use rebar. It won’t hurt anything.
I recently purchased a 12×18 oval above ground pool and it does require some supports to be buried. I planned on pouring a concrete slab until I read your comments. I need something that will keep tree roots from growing up underneath the pool over time. Any suggestions?
Roots will grow under your liner for sure no matter what. It’s super rare that they will damage the liner though, although you will feel some of them when they grow big enough. Usually by then, it’s time for a new liner anyway, so they can be cut out then.
You could put down foam sheeting to prevent you from feeling them, but nothing that I know of will stop them from growing towards the moisture transfer that happens with pool liners.
We are installing a 24′ round Intex soft side in our yard in Belize. The ground is sand fill, and we want to install a 4 inch concrete pad. Our concrete contractor recommends an 8″ x 14″ footing around the circumference and two more smaller footings through the middle, bisecting the circle into quarters. I’m okay with the 4″ slab, but I think the footings are a bit overkill. This has nothing to do with any building codes. I think that 4″ with mesh should be adequate. What is your professional opinion?
The 4″ slab with mesh is fine. It’s probably overkill really but that’s ok. Pouring a footer though is just a total waste of money, so you’re thinking is good.
We have concrete poured in an existing place where previous owners had a pool. It’s a concrete ring with sand in the middle. I’m pretty sure it was only for a 24 inch pool. We have a friend giving us a 30 inch pool. How can we make this spot work in budget? Add to it? Sand? Will we need sand and concrete? I’m so lost .
I don’t know that this will work well. You will have a ring of concrete within the bottom of your 30′ pool that will either have to be covered or be taken out. You could also add to the concrete to make it big enough for the 30′ pool, but that will be expensive.
My dad and I are buying a house. The house has a 4 inch thick concrete slab that a previous above ground pool was on that’s 26 feet round.. there are four PVC pipes leading underground to where the pump was that were or been cut off 3 inches above the ground. In the center of the concrete slab is the drain.. in the concrete.. I’ve never seen this with the drain bolted and secured in the middle of the slab. and all the piping underground. How would this not leak? The slab does have cracks but is level to less than half inch. What kind of pool could I put on the slab where the drain is in the concrete and all the piping underground? Thanks.. there is an automatic shut off by the garage to 220V. And a concrete 2‘ x 3‘ Small slab where the 4 pvp pipes come up out of the ground..to where the pump was..
Sounds like you have a nice set-up. You should be able to put up any round above ground pool 26′ round or smaller. As far as the drain goes, it’s probably ok but I would have an experienced pool guy check its condition and maybe pressure test the line. The pipe under the concrete should be and stay good, but you never know.
I would pressure test the other lines going to the garage too before using with new equipment. Just in case.
We just poured a 32′ pad , 6″ thick with a 1/2″ rebar mat – 18″ OC for a 30′ pool. Do you recommend cutting relief joints?
Of course yes.
Another above ground Oval pool on concrete question. I have an existing pad large enough for approximately a 16′ x 10′ Oval pool. The model I was looking at requires 2 inch deep trenching for the supports on the straight sides.
Do you think 2″ think concrete pavers attached to the pad, to serve as the “Sandbox”, would work?
It may work if the pad is perfectly level. My bet is that it’s not, so you will need many different sizes of patio stones to get it sitting perfectly on the concrete. This article may help https://abovegroundpoolsknowitall.com/building-a-sandbox-for-an-above-ground-pool/
I am installed a 15 x 15 round above ground pool in my backyard. I would like to set this on top of a slab of concrete. The pool is 15 x 15 and hold 8,000 gallons. How much concrete would I need and how tall would the slab of round concrete be to pour to hold the pool.
You only have to have a two-inch thick concrete pad for an above ground pool. Water perfectly evenly distributes it’s weight, so you don’t need any real structure keep the pool in place. Of course, you can pour a thicker slab if that makes you feel better. It won’t hurt anything except cost you more.
What’s more important than the thickness of the concrete is the level of the slab. You will want this to be perfectly level as you won’t be able to make any adjustments to the pool’s bottom track. For a 15′ round pool, make a 17′ slab. This will give you plenty of room (1 foot around)for the pool’s frame to sit on plus a nice barrier around the pool.
And don’t forget that you need foam coving and a ground pad when placing a pool on concrete.
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the informative article.
I’ll be installing a 27′ round above ground pool in a flood zone, during sometimes of the year the yard has standing water after a storm moves through. Is it possible to install a cement curb maybe 8″ wide around the circumference of the pool, fill the interior with sand, and then install the pool walls on top of the curb? My thinking would be to raise the pool slightly above the grade on the curb and help prevent the bottom track and wall from being in standing water, and slow down the corrosion process.
Thanks for your input,
Don
Hi Don
Yes I think this will work as long as you have elevated the area high enough.
How big of a cement area do i need for a 12 x 24 Intex rectangular pool? 1 ft more on each side , so cement needed wii be 14 x 26 or more? Thanks
You will need it to be wider and longer I think because the supports stick out all the way around a rectangle pool. Not much though for an Intex type.
I have an existing patio that came with the house. It has cracks and spots that aren’t level but it is not ready to be taken out by a long shot. It’s very large and we are considering a decent pool. My question is since a normal 2” pad would be good could we cap it with 2” and it leveled? We have considered that if we kept the patio without putting the pool on it.
Absolutely! Get your deck level using cement and you are good to go.
Hi, I have a 15 ft by 54 inch above ground hard sided pool set up on a 16 x 16 concrete slab. I am having an electrician install the GFCI outlet for the pump/filter and there is a bonding connection on the pump and I asked my electrician about bonding the pool and all my research shows that the #8 copper wire needs to be buried in the ground around the pool but with the concrete that is impossible to do. I have styrofoam insulation as well as a gorilla pad on top of the concrete. I have the stryofoam cove all around the inside of the pool frame perimeter. The bottom track is resin as are the legs/supports and the top rails so there really is no metal to attach/bond the copper to other than the wall and I am really not keen on drilling holes into my wall. Any thoughts on this so I can give my electrician the go ahead on this? Thank you.
My thoughts are that bonding an above ground pool is a waste of money. If you choose to do it though, then you’ll only be able to attach your wire to one of the nuts that hold the wall bolts together (since your have a resin bottom track). And it doesn’t have to be buried. You could be theoretically fancy too and attach the wire to a grounding rod.
Any tips on keeping resin baseplates and rales in place while putting up the wall? We have a 35 foot round concrete slab and installing a 33 foot round pool. Thanks
People try to tape them in place or tapcon them to the concrete and so on. I don’t recommend doing anything like that.
What I would do is make sure the bottom track is round and then mark where the track and/or the bottom plates are before you roll out the wall. Hitting them with spray paint it a good way as it will show a silhouette of where the plates were if they move during the wall install.
Now get the wall up and bolted together. Then go back and kick the wall and bottom track back to where it was before you rolled out the wall. This will ensure that the pool is still round after you installed the wall and the track moved some.
I had a 18×9 Oval pool that collapsed after my wife left the hose running all night to wake up in the morning to see the ground muddy and the walls of the pool bend and broken and the pool destroyed. We also has the legs on one side higher so it would fit in our space which maybe wasn’t good idea but we wanted the maximum size, the pool lasted only 8 days LOL. My wife said let buy another one and she will never fill it up again I told her what about the rain and snow,we would have same problem again.I decided to put concrete and I did it myself for first time,I tried to level but that was impossible to level, I made 8 slabs and tried making them the same size but some were off.I put heavy foam on concrete and than a tarp on top of that and put up the same size pool with the legs pushed against the deck and the other 3 expanded so water not even by 3 “ on one size so it sloops and who cares.I didn’t use rebar or wire and I was told you don’t need it,it been up now for 1 month and so far no problems, no rain yet or snow.If something happens again I will get a smaller pool but I feel just do it and you don’t need anyone help,I had people tell me it a big job and lots of money, yes if you hire someone they do.Mix cement with water and pour now is that hard?